Day 9: Valdeblore → Sospel

I woke to a rosy sunrise peeking over ridges in Valdeblore. There was a sense of excitement in the crisp morning air – today I would cross the last high passes before descending to the sea. I began by climbing out of Valdeblore towards the Col de la Colmiane (also known as Col St. Martin, 1,500 m). The ascent was gradual and peaceful, just a few hundred meters higher from where I’d slept. Reaching the Colmiane pass felt symbolic: it was the final time on this trip I would exceed 1,500 m. I paused briefly at the ski station on top, then began the long descent into the Vésubie Valley. The road swerved down through forests and past rustic hamlets, losing altitude rapidly. Each turn brought warmer air and lusher vegetation. At the valley floor, palm-like yucca plants and oleander bushes appeared in gardens – a clear sign of the Mediterranean influence creeping in.

From the village of Lantosque, I took a deep breath and prepared for the next challenge: Col de Turini, one of the most famous mountain passes in this region. The Col de Turini (1,607 m) is legendary not only among cyclists but also as a classic stage in the Monte Carlo Rally, known for its countless hairpin bends snaking up through dense forests. My route tackled Turini from the west side – approximately 15 km of climbing with a gain of ~1,100 m at an average gradient of about 7.3%. As I climbed, I could see why Turini is beloved; the road was an engineer’s marvel, etching back and forth across the mountain face. I settled into a cadence and let the rhythm of the switchbacks carry me upward. Tall beech and chestnut trees lined the route, providing welcome shade in the strengthening sun. Occasionally, a viewpoint would open up, revealing the deep valley I’d left and the higher ridges looming ahead. About two-thirds up, I passed the famed cluster of hairpins near the village of Moulinet – a dizzying sight of asphalt loops stacked on the mountainside. The higher I went, the quieter it became, save for the chorus of birdsong and my own breathing. At last, I rounded a bend to see the Col de Turini sign. I had made it! I stood at 1,607 m feeling both triumphant and a bit nostalgic – this was the last major climb of the tour.

The descent from Turini to Sospel was pure bliss. I swooped down through dozens of bends, at times riding along a ridge with views stretching all the way to the azure Mediterranean Sea in the distance. Yes – there it was, a faint blue line on the horizon beyond layer upon layer of hills! The first sight of the sea nearly made me shout with joy. The road eventually joined a river and led me gently into the town of Sospel (350 m). Sospel is a quaint Provençal-style town with pastel buildings and a medieval stone bridge over the Bévéra River. Arriving in the late afternoon, I treated myself to a scoop of gelato in the town square – a small celebration of coming off the last big mountain. The evening light turned the surrounding hills golden-green as I checked into a guesthouse. I strolled the narrow lanes of Sospel, reflecting on the incredible passes now behind me. The air was fragrant with jasmine and citrus; I felt almost as if I had already arrived at the Riviera. Tomorrow, a relatively short ride would carry me to the journey’s end at Nice. My emotions swirled – anticipation, pride, even a bit of sadness that this grand adventure was nearly complete.